...with Arles. This town is on my doorstep and one that I am familiar with but probably not quite as well as I should be. I visit the market on a Saturday morning, I try and attend some exhibitions during the year and I always recommend the Roman Arena as a must see for any friends coming to Provence.
On Thursday night something changed and I felt the magic and romance of Arles as though it were my first time. A friend and I had planned to meet in St Remy that evening - we were going to have an early dinner and a quiet night. Thursday was one of those days that Provence is famous for - cobalt skies, the perfect temperature and only a whisper of breeze - so instead, to take advantage of the evening, we drove to Arles to eat outside in the Place du Forum.
The drive set the mood. If you picture narrow winding roads bordered by wild flowers, wheat fields waving in the breeze and a slow setting sun illuminating the countryside then you can imagine the beauty of this night. Add in a glorious Bach arrangement by Jacques Louissier as the background musical accompaniment and the scene was set. I wonder how much these views have changes since Roman times; the idea of living in the present but looking at the past is a wonder to me.
Arles is a town of narrow curving streets and blonde stone. The facades of the buildings are architecturally decorative but what is most impressive are the doors - Arles has the most elaborate porte d'entrees. The Place du Forum, towards the historical centre of town, is the heart of eating and drinking and also the place where Vincent Van Gogh painted Cafe Terrace at Night. Tonight as I look from the northern corner the view is remarkably unchanged although Van Gogh did not include the remaining Roman monuments in his painting.
We ate at the outdoor restaurant of the Grand Hotel Nord Pinus. This hotel was very much the place to be in the 50's and 60's - Picasso lived here and Hemingway, Cocteau and John Houston were regulars. Arles is a bullfighting town and the Nord Pinus was the favoured establishment of some of the greatest 20th century matadors - it is only a stone's throw away from the Arena.
The decor inside is all about comfy leather armchairs, low lighting, black and white photographs and massive mirrors...moody and eclectic and certainly not for the minimalist lover. But this place has such atmosphere and there must be so many delicious secrets locked within... if only the walls could talk or I could snap my fingers and step back in time by 50 years.
If you come to Arles don't forget to take a peak in at the Grand Hotel Nord Pinus - if you are an interiors junkie like me you won't be disappointed and if you are an art lover then you can hum 'Starry, Starry Night' and think of Van Gogh whilst sipping an apero in the square. Ancient history buffs - well you may just never be able to bring yourselves to leave les Arenes ....
Arles, it is a town to love. xv
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