Sunday, February 15, 2009

The City of 'Silver' Light



If Paris is the city of pink - of rose light - then Venice must be the city of silver light. 

There is equally something magical about the light in Venice that makes this city cast a spell on all who visit. This past week we have been devoted to Valentines and the subject of love so when better to meander through the streets of Venice and loose ourselves in the romance of this mercury coloured wonderland.

Venice, in the north eastern part of Italy, is built on 118 small islands in the Venetian Lagoon along the Adriatic sea and is divided by 150 canals. There are only 62,000 people who live in the historic centre of Venice today and the population continues to decrease as traditional manufacturing and commerce gives way to an economy based solely on tourism.

Last weekend (birthday treat from Mr Frequent Flyer as unexpectedly he could not be with me  -  very lovely my Mr FF ) my daughter and I wandered, actually waded would be a more accurate description, through the streets of Venice, crossed over the canals, visited museums and galleries and completely fell in love with this glorious city - it has been more than ten years since I last visited Venice. 

There is nothing that can prepare you for the beauty of this city as you approach the Grand Canal. Cruising down this Venetian waterway is like stepping back in time; the fading grandeur of a past era is alive and breathing before your very eyes.


Every second of the day there was something of artistic importance to see and somewhere of historical note to explore. Venice is a city to loose yourself in; to meander through the narrow streets and marvel at all that is around you. 




St Mark's Square, the starting point and heart of the historical centre, was flooded from morning until the early afternoon on each of the days we were there. A siren sounded during the night alerting the residents (and us) to the rising tides. These high tides have become part of the routine of Venetian life - the furniture is lifted, basement pumps go into action, flood gates are positioned in front of doorways and temporary high passage ways are erected throughout the narrow streets. Fortunately for us gumboots are sold on every street corner and we didn't have to tip-toe far to buy a pair - without them we would have been very miserable, as the water was a good twelve inches deep. 

On Sunday morning we climbed to the top of St Mark's Basilica  and listened to the congregation celebrate Mass. We walked outside and admired the view to the Doges' Palace and beyond.



For lovers of architecture, Venice is a dream come true with buildings from the Byzantine, Baroque, Gothic and Neo- Classical periods. 






The Bridge of Sighs is wrapped for restoration but that did not stop me and countless others from snapping away. The covered scaffolding blended into the surroundings and had a certain visual presence. 


The canals that dissect the city are silent in the winter months and there wasn't much business for the gondoliers of Venice. Their rowing boats were moored and rocking peacefully in wait. 






The Rialto Bridge, the oldest in Venice, is one of four bridges that span the Grand Canal. 


This area is the tourists heartland and a thriving part of the Grand Canal.




Venice would not be Venice without a million carnivale masks to choose from 



or delicious dolci to indulge in.




This year the Venice Carnival runs from the 14th - 24th February. Carnival is a celebration of season - a festival to mark the passage from winter to spring and since the first carnival in 1268 it has been the tradition to wear masks.

There is no shortage of Murano glass or beads to buy in Venice

but as the sun sets and the lights come on in St Mark's Square the mind shifts; sightseeing and shopping are forgotten. 

It is the hour to take tea at Florian in the square or try a Bellini - a blend of peach juice and Prosecco - made famous by the Cipriani family of Harry's Bar.


Winter is not the most popular time of the year to visit Venice but for me it was perfect. It was cold and damp and wet and sometimes rainy, but at the same time it was magical. Every single moment spent absorbing that silvery light made me feel so fortunate and so grateful to be there. xv

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