Monday, January 19, 2009

If I turn right, turn left and turn right again


I will drive past Les Antiques on my way to Maussane, a very beautiful village on the other side of the Alpilles, about ten minutes from Saint Remy de Provence.

These two monuments were constructed during the early Roman Empire. This D5 road that winds through the Alpilles was once the Via Domita, the major connection between Spain and Italy. The Mausoleum and the Triumphal Arch are impressive landmarks and are both something of a surprise after the quaint nature of my town – I never pass by without thinking that it is incredible to live with some of the best-preserved architecture of the Roman world sitting on my doorstep.

The Mausolée des Jules, built around 30-20 BC, was erected by the descendants of a Roman family to pay respect to their father and grandfather. The Triumphal arch, younger by about fifty years and less preserved than the Mausoleum was built to mark the entrance to the ancient town of Glanum. Situated at the source of a spring, in the narrow gap of the Alpilles Mountains, this site can be dated back to 7th century BC. The Romans occupied this town after Caesar’s conquest of Marseille in 49BC and the triumphal arch pays tribute to Caesar’s success. Augustus Caesar rebuilt Glanum and centred the town around a wide avenue where the forum, basilica, temples and baths were constructed. A Teutonic invasion in 260AD forced the evacuation of Glanum and the site became buried and forgotten until 1921 when Jules Formigé and Pierre Brun started archaeological excavations. 

A visit to Les Antiques and Glanum is a highlight for any ancient history lovers who visit Saint Rémy de Provence – for me; it is like having a mini Pompeii in the back garden. xv

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