Sunday - two choices,Wake up leisurely, laze in bed reading the papers and sipping coffees - one after the other. Contemplate the day ahead and after a couple of hours of serious indulgence put the feet on the floor, get dressed and take a long walk up into the mountains nearby,
or
Wake up early, have the coffee on the run and drive to L'Isle sur la Sorgue, a small town about thirty minutes from St Remy de Provence. L'Isle sur la Sorgue, which translates as 'the island on the Sorgue river, is a town that specializes in antique shops and markets - the shops and galleries, whilst open all year, are only open on a Saturday, Sunday and Monday.
Don't misunderstand I am the queen of the lazy Sunday but it is a tough choice when the lie in is up against an antique market.
Dilemma decided - antiques it is.
Sunday is the best day to go because it is market day - the Provencal market and the antique market are on either sides of the river. The antique market has everything from linens and laces to candlesticks, glassware and the odd picture. I have an eternal hope that I might stumble upon a fabulous find of some sort and on many weekends I have. Well, what is my idea of a fabulous find might not be the same for everyone but there is plenty of choice and most of the fun is in the looking. It is also a great people watch - the French are especially fond of a market and cannot help themselves when it comes to sorting through second hand goods.
An early arrival at the market is always better for choice but later is better for bargains so I generally browse in the morning, buy something if I can't live without it, and take another look before I go home just in case ...
Apart from the Sunday market, L'Isle sur la Sorgue is filled with shops and galleries (mostly antiques - a few contemporary/modern pieces of furniture are now starting to appear). The galleries (more like antique warehouses) are home to many different dealers who are represented under the one roof.
Over the years I have come to have my favourites (there are so many it is impossible to cover them all in one day) but I always stop by Le Quai de la Gare .
As I walked in, my attention was caught by this Napoleonic style bookcase - I thought it looked wonderful with the arrangement of bric-a brac, books and small pictures. The Aubusson tapestry, pictured below, was on the back of a nearby chair - tapestry is a love of mine and the upholstery on this chair was in immaculate condition.
Upstairs I saw an armoire that was wallpapered inside with original Directoire paper. I have never before seen the interior of an armoire in such original state. The photograph does not do it justice as the wallpaper was well preserved and very lovely.
The fun of a day in L'isle sur la Sorgue is in the looking (and the dreaming) and in the chatting with the dealers. I browse much more than I buy but I find that enthuses me with great ideas for changing furniture around at home or rearranging small items. There are bargains to be had, especially in the winter time, and I have come to learn that the ticket price is never the final price.
But even if antiques and old tat is not your thing - it is the prettiest town to take a wander. Iron walkways for pedestrians cross over the river at intervals,
and the ducks cruise up and down.
It is definitely worth an early wake up.
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